🔴 CO2 — 40W (K40 and similar)
| Material | Thickness | Speed | Power | Passes | Est. Kerf | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MDF | 3mm | 20 mm/s | 65% | 1 | 0.15–0.20mm | Clean cut, normal dark edges |
| MDF | 4mm | 15 mm/s | 70% | 1 | 0.18–0.22mm | May require 2 passes depending on the machine |
| MDF | 6mm | 10 mm/s | 80% | 2 | 0.22–0.28mm | 2 passes recommended |
| Plywood | 3mm | 20 mm/s | 65% | 1 | 0.15–0.20mm | Varies depending on plywood quality |
| Plywood | 6mm | 12 mm/s | 80% | 2 | 0.20–0.28mm | Check quality — avoid plywood with interior voids/fillers |
| Acrylic | 3mm | 15 mm/s | 60% | 1 | 0.10–0.15mm | Leave protective film on during cutting |
| Cardboard | 3–4mm | 30 mm/s | 50% | 1 | 0.20–0.30mm | Fire hazard — do not leave unattended |
🔴 CO2 — 60W–80W (Desktop and Semi-professional)
| Material | Thickness | Speed | Power | Passes | Est. Kerf | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MDF | 3mm | 35 mm/s | 55% | 1 | 0.15–0.18mm | Lower power prevents excessive charring |
| MDF | 6mm | 20 mm/s | 70% | 1 | 0.20–0.25mm | Single pass possible with 70W+ |
| MDF | 9mm | 12 mm/s | 80% | 2 | 0.25–0.30mm | Verify with a test cut |
| Plywood | 3mm | 35 mm/s | 50% | 1 | 0.15–0.18mm | Adjust according to type (birch vs poplar) |
| Plywood | 6mm | 20 mm/s | 65% | 1 | 0.20–0.25mm | — |
| Plywood | 9mm | 14 mm/s | 78% | 2 | 0.25–0.32mm | 2 passes for a clean cut |
| Acrylic | 3mm | 25 mm/s | 55% | 1 | 0.10–0.15mm | Edges with glass-like finish |
| Acrylic | 6mm | 15 mm/s | 65% | 1 | 0.14–0.18mm | — |
| Leather/Fabric | 2–3mm | 40 mm/s | 40% | 1 | 0.10–0.15mm | Fume extraction mandatory |
🔵 Diode — 10W–40W Optical Output (xTool, Sculpfun, Ortur)
| Material | Thickness | Speed | Power | Passes | Est. Kerf | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MDF | 3mm | 300 mm/min | 90% | 1–2 | 0.15–0.22mm | xTool D1 Pro 20W: 1 pass possible |
| MDF | 4mm | 200 mm/min | 95% | 2 | 0.18–0.25mm | — |
| Plywood | 3mm | 350 mm/min | 90% | 1–2 | 0.15–0.20mm | Laser-grade Baltic birch recommended |
| Plywood | 4mm | 250 mm/min | 95% | 2 | 0.18–0.24mm | — |
| Acrylic | 3mm | 200 mm/min | 90% | 2–3 | 0.12–0.18mm | Colored acrylic only — clear acrylic does not cut well with a diode laser |
| Cardboard | 2–3mm | 500 mm/min | 70% | 1 | 0.18–0.25mm | Constant supervision mandatory |
Tips for Calibrating Your Machine
Cut a 20×20mm square before cutting the entire design. You will save material if something is wrong.
Speed first (it affects the outcome most), then power (fine-tuning). Only change one variable at a time.
An improperly focused lens can double the kerf. Calibrate the focus before adjusting power or speed.
The quality of the interior glue in plywood heavily affects the cut. Always buy "laser grade" or "Baltic birch".
Every time you change power or speed, the kerf changes. Use the kerf calculator.
Especially with MDF (contains formaldehyde) and acrylic (toxic vapors). No exceptions.
Is your kerf calibrated? Generate your box with automatic compensation.
Open Box Studio →How to use this table
The values in this table are starting points, not definitive settings. Every machine is different — two cutters of the same model can need different settings due to variations in the tube, optics, beam alignment, and lens condition.
The correct process: take the value from this table for your machine and material, run a test cut on a scrap piece, and adjust from there. Two or three test cuts are usually enough to dial in your optimal settings.
Understanding the columns
Power (%) — Percentage of maximum tube or diode power. Very high values (90–100%) accelerate tube wear on CO2 machines. For routine cuts, staying between 70–85% and compensating by lowering speed is better for tube longevity.
Speed (mm/s) — How fast the head moves. Higher speed = less exposure time = shallower cut. Speed has more impact than power on cut quality: adjust speed first, then use power as fine-tuning.
Passes — Number of times the laser traverses the same path. Thicker or denser materials may need 2–3 passes instead of pushing power higher, which reduces accumulated charring per pass.
Frequently asked questions
The cut doesn't go all the way through. What do I do?
First check focus — a defocused lens can cut effective power in half. If focus is correct, lower speed by 5–10 mm/s or add a pass. Avoid raising power more than 5–10% at a time to prevent burning the material.
Edges are too charred. How do I reduce it?
Increase speed and compensate with more power. Excessive charring is almost always from speed being too low. Air assist also helps — if your machine has it, make sure it's active during cutting.
Does kerf change when I change power or speed?
Yes, always. Any change in power, speed, passes, focus, or material changes the kerf. If you adjust cut settings, recalibrate kerf with a test cut before generating your final SVG. Use the kerf calculator for the math.
Why is plywood harder to cut than MDF of the same thickness?
Plywood has wood layers with grain in alternating directions, and the adhesive between layers can have variable density. This makes cuts less consistent. Always use Baltic birch or laser-grade plywood — construction-grade plywood has voids and adhesives that resist cutting and can damage optics with excessive smoke.
Do these values work for engraving too?
This table is specific to cutting. Engraving values are completely different: much higher speed (300–600 mm/s), lower power (20–40%), and raster DPI matters. Engraving requires its own calibration separate from cutting.